|
If properly setup , meaning good pads, fluid and **COOLING**, stock 914 brakes can work reasonably well, even under track conditions. Not STELLAR, but pretty good.
Bigger calipers won't do much until you get them wrapped around vented discs. Yes, going to vented discs and calipers can make good gains in brake longevity for track use. But that also adds unsprung weight to the car as well.
Joe, if you're planning on running a lot of track events, then maybe upgrading the brakes might be the way to go. But if it's only the occasional track event, and mostly autox, I'd keep what you've got and just run a separate set of track pads with FRESH fluid for the track. The rears may be a bit of a PITA to swap out (venting clearance setting), but the knowledge that your brakes won't leave you when you need 'em the most is well worth it IMO.
Air is key. After that, fresh high temp fluid and good race pads.
A note about fluids. Generally speaking, the high temp fluids tend to be hydrophilic, meaning they like to absorb water. This is fine, as long as the fluid is fresh. But the high temp stuff will need to be flushed more frequently. The specs on the fluids will list both a dry boiling point, and a wet boiling point. As water creeps into the fluid, the boiling point drops. This is because the water boils at a much lower temperature than the fluid. Once the water boils, it becomes vapor, which is compressible. This mens the brake pedal will hit the floor board at the most innoportune time (like braking for turn 1 at the end of the front straight). Flush before a track event to make sure you've got good, dry fluid in there.
Pads: The better race pads will use ceramic backing plates. This helps keep the heat from going throuhg the pad, through the piston to the fluid. A stainless steel shim between the pad and the piston is not a bad idea either. Stainless steel is a lousy thermal conductor, which is good in this case.
-Josh2
|