Quote:
Originally posted by Brian Mifsud
Still working out bugs in my '76 2.0
Car was flooding (like 1/4" fuel in intake manifold) before I disconnected the cold start valve. I have yet to test the valve to see if it is faulty by removing it and sticking it in a jar (per Dave Darlings recommendations). Questions:
#1.Are there any conditions inwhich a GOOD cold start valve would still flood intake manifold (i.e. it is "told" to stay open??)
#2. My ECU has no numbers identifying it on the exterior that I can find (although someone went nuts with a rattle can of black paint all over the engine at some time in its history) Are the numbers identifying the ECU stamped into the housing? Are they inside on the mother board? I'm pretty sure its the WRONG ECU becuase the mounting brackets don't match up with the firewall mounts.
#3. Also, once hot, the engine doesn't want to maintain idle and becomes exceedingly hard to restart after it eventually quits (like after 10 minutes of driving). Am I barking down the wrong tree checking my head temp gauge?
thanks
Brian
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#1. No, unless like BD1308 stated the TTS is bad.
#2. The ECU doesn't mount to the firewall it mounts to the edge of the batterytray with a special mount so you can pull it out. (see pic) UNLESS you have AC which means the Dealer mounted it to the firewall anywhich way they could. There are stamped numbers inside the ECU.
#3. The idle needs to be adjusted "HOT" as the engine needs to be fully warmed up or else the AAR valve is still open or the CHT is still richening up the AFR. A slumping idle when hot usually means its too rich! So after the engine is hot, adjust the idle mix via the ECU knob and the airbypass on the TB using a CO meter or by ear.
