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jclark jclark is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Livermore, Kahlifornia usa
Posts: 1,771
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Dr. Curve caused electrons to form:



Of course mirror polish the crown. Not only that, consider glass beading the piston skirts from the oil ring on down only..........not on the ring landings or landing edges. Also remember that IF for any reason you decide to remove material from the skirt edge.........DO NOT round it off in any way.......but rather make sure the out side edge (piston to cylinder edge) is knife like with no campher. Also consider wrist pins that have cut so as to have a interior taper that leaves only the thick part of the pin in the center area where the small end of the rod rests. Check around and find some chevy racing pins and cut these to fit. The outsider diameter (22mm??) is all you need to match up. Get strong thick ones and then cut them down internally so that both ends of the pin have tapered to barely 1mm or just enough to hold the clip. The inward taper goes to the thick center area and the whole pin will be lighter and stronger than the original. Think of a reverse Morris taper inside the pin. Balance these of course.

Consider adding a second oil hole in the small end of the rod but remember that the "cracked fit" metal is a trick to drill. Campher the oiling holes so that they really take in some oil mist. Do not polish the rods unless you really have a lots of time to mess with them. They are not surfaced hardened however and can be polished but get ready to spend some time. Big end balance is important however and remove casting marks off the bearing cap and grind its backside if need be. Do this on a balance beam type scale like one would weight powered chemicals with. Make sure that the rods are absolutly level with the balance deck so that the small end and the big end center lines are horizontal to gravity and to the balance deck as well. If I were you, and if you have the money, you might consider a set of Carillio Rods which are both stronger and lighter than stock. If you order a set you can specify that the pin end be made wider than stock.........which will insure even more pin support at higher RPMs. I would not shot peen the rods because the new metal will not respond to it like the old stuff did.





Two issues:

1) Glass Bead blasting the pistons?

I do not think this is a good use of this technology. In fact, using it on ANY interior ( al-u-min-ium ) facing part of the motor, is risking potenially little glass beads, that are wont to embed themselves into the aluminium ( and do! ), can loosen themselves and get squirted around the interior of the motor via the oil passages, with possible deliterious effects.
Just don't do it.

2) "Campher the oiling holes so that they really take in some oil mist."?

What, to keep mosquitos off the oiling holes? To make it smell better ( some people *like* the smell of campher [ camphor ] - I do )? Just doesn't sound like it has any value in this discription of engine work.

I suspect some unclear technical writing here, which has bad portents for those literalists ( me! ) and anyone else who might try this at home.

jeff
Old 08-31-2006, 05:33 PM
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