[Grady Clay]

Chris,

I agree, it probably is an “extra part” but I wouldn’t take any chances.

Yes, I would open both sides just to look and have new gaskets.

Were the six (5 of one kind and one of another) plastic chain ramps changed with the tensioners? Were the idler carriers up-dated?

Some things to be careful of:
When in your chain covers, wire or zip-tie the chain idler sprocket so the chain can never get any slack. It is possible for the chain to jump a tooth with a slack chain. The cam is then out of time, valves can hit pistons and worse things can happen from there. A little care goes a long way.

This might be a good opportunity for you to just measure your cam timing. Easy to do and a good learning experience with it semi-apart as you have.

If you need to replace the chain, it is necessary to turn the engine by hand. You must not let the valves touch the pistons. The best way is to remove all the rocker shafts. Some only back off the valve adjusting screws. After replacing a chain(s) it is necessary to re-time the cam(s).


Before you get too carried away in this project, I recommend you check the cylinder head nut torque. This is a weak point with the 2.7 engine (it pulls the head stud threads in the crankcase). Use a calibrated torque wrench. Check them at 60% torque spec and then at 80%. There isn’t any need to torque them to spec and risk one pulling. If any move at 60% or 80% - stop and let sleeping dogs lie.


When you are searching for the master link, remember to turn the engine only CW at the crankshaft (cams turn CCW).

If/when you take off the intake, be very careful to not have something drop in an intake port. The fiberglass fan shroud acts like a funnel and the open port like a magnet.

Best,
Grady