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JivenJim JivenJim is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: San Diego
Posts: 703
For hoist attachment points, I use a good D Ring (a chain link coupler found at any hardware store) attached to the Back left Head O Clip (that the shinny metal O ring and remove 1 of 4 17mm Bolts on the front right side of head that attaches to engine mount arm. If your Engine has a front O Ring clip so, You can use that instead of the attaching the Bolt like a mentioned.
Once you support (lift) engine then you remove the Cross member/steering rack. Also don't forget to disconnect the 2 Heater exchange hose in the back of engine to Firewall. Steering Rack is a Pain to remove Coupler and Tie Rods. Some guys don't remove Steering rack. They just roll it forward and then pull the engine sideways out the wheel. Never tried so..
Also you could go out the Top. Search for these Topics as its been explained and debated Alot.
Then I lower engine on the ground. I like to use about five, 3 foot x 1 inch dia wooden rods to roll the engine Out from under the car (Egyptian technique) Some guys slide on carpet or heavy Cardboard. Lots a ways to do it, just have a helper handy.
Hint: Also before you remove Engine, Put car in gear with parking brake on, loosen the 24mm Crank Bolt in the Center of the main pulley. It can take up to 200 ft/lbs so use the breaker bar. But that can save you alot of trouble later when you break down the engine.
Ask the questions if anything is not clear.
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1987 924S with 968 Drive front to back, Bilstein Insert on mod/stock Struts, 450# Hypercoils, 28mm Torsion Bars, Weltmeister Adjustable Sway Bars, Lindsey 968 Light flywheel, Spec Stage II Clutch, ToYO RA1's, Auto Power Cage & 6 pt Harness, KLA Strut Brace, Greasy hands, heavy foot, and lots of smiles
Old 11-09-2006, 09:24 AM
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