View Single Post
racer racer is offline
Registered
 
racer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 3,347
Some reasons why the '69's are overlooked these days

1) Many race sanctioning bodies (historic racing) have raised their cut offs over the years. For a while 1969 and 1970 were cut-offs, now they are up to 1974 (or even newer?) for instance which does/did have an impact on values.

2) A '69T is not an exciting car. 110hp 2.0L motor. Approx 2200lb? So, not lightening quick, when compared to the 140hp E or 170hp S models and although the cars got heavier by 1973, by then a T had 140hp, an "E" 165 and as "S" 190hp

3) Well optioned cars are more often more desireable cars. In this case, well optioned "S" will lead the pricing brigade. Then E's then T's.

3B) -4spd? 5spd? "s" options? bone stock "T"? Just what exactly do you have there?

4) If you are looking to flip, and are going down to bare metal, pick a factory color that you (and others) like and go for it.

5) If you want to do it right, paint it in the original color. In my book, if I were to look for a 30 year old car, I would want it as original as possible. Paint, if redone, I prefer in the original color.

I have read that the Euro market is hungry for these cars as well. Seems Europeans must have "used up" their copies and now want "babied" american cars.

Any full 100pt restore will leave you upside down at this time. Unless its an "RS" or "R" to begin with. Even a full restore "S" would be upside down. Only the truly original, documented, low mile early cars would not leave you upside down.
Old 11-27-2006, 06:35 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #12 (permalink)