Quote:
Originally posted by frankc
Once complete, I plan to use the car for occasional street and DE again (and cocours). I don’t mind a firm suspension (in fact I prefer it), as long as it is not too harsh (my wife may complain). ...
this is the list of suspension components I came up with:
Torsion Bars (hollow): 21/27 or 22/28?
Shocks: Need help here. The car has original Koni’s
Sway Bars: 22/21 (OEM from 86+ Carrera?)
ER P-B Ctrl Arm bearings
ER Low Friction Ctrl Arm mounts
Rennline Truss-Mount 3-point Strut Brace
Monoball upper strut bushing? (w/camber plate?)
Turbo Tie Rods
Ball Joints
Bump-steer Steering rack spacers (needed for euro height)?
Spring Plate Bushings (ER P-B, or WEVO SPS?)
Monoball Trailing Arm bushing
Wheels: 6 & 8x16 or 7 & 8x16 Fuchs (probably wait on this)
Some misc notes – the front has the aluminum S calipers (< unsprung weight), and the complete A/C was removed from the car some time ago. Plus the engine intake/exhaust mods lightened things up a bit as well.
So the questions I have are:
- Which torsion bar combo given a slightly lighter than stock weight for a ‘77 & some DE?
- Since the car came equipped with the optional Koni’s (adjustable), and since they supposedly have a lifetime warranty, should I just try to increase the dampening? These are the older type which require the strut to be unbolted from the top to adjust. I would prefer the newer style. Should I just assume these are shot (at 102K miles) and replace them? If so, do I go with Koni’s again or Bilsteins?
- If I use a 3 point strut brace, will my Targa top still fit in the trunk? I measured it and it looks close. One posting I found here says it will fit. I never put the top on the car (since I never drive it in the rain), but occasionally I take it with me for insurance. I can always place it unfolded behind the front seats.
- If I use a truss mounted strut brace, does this prevent me from using the style of upper strut monoball that includes a camber plate?
- Should I expect the existing rubber upper strut bushing to be in need of replacement at their age? If so, I would go ahead with monoballs there. If not, they may be a little harder to justify.
- And what is the advantage of going with the strut monoball that has the camber plate? Is it just to allow for more camber adjustment?
- If I just drop the height to euro-spec, do I still need to raise the rack for bump-steer. I wouldn’t think so (it seems like it should be in its natural setting at that height).
- The Spring Plate bushings are the big dilemma for me. I like the WEVO SPS, but I don’t know if I really need the adjustable spring plate. I don’t see myself adjusting the ride height all that much once it is dialed in. It would certainly be nice for setting the initial height and for corner balancing, but after that I’m not sure if I would touch it. Plus the recent thread on the two plates separating (with any adjustable SP) makes me wonder if I’m not better off with the ER P-B bushing (which I like just as well) and my OEM adjustable spring plate (much less $ as well). I plan to do the front half of the car first while I agonize over this decision (with help from some of you I hope).
- Mentioned that I will probably wait on the 8x16 Fuchs as they are hard to come by these days, and when you can find them, they are not cheap (I should have bought them when they were "only" $400 per wheel years ago).
Thanks,
Frank
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Tbars - Given your concerns about the wifes comfort, I would suggest 21/27. This will make a big difference in control and body sway, but still be pretty comfortable.
You could go with adjustable sway bars, and tighten them up for your DE days, then run them softer for the street.
And your adjustable konis can also be tuned somewhat for DE/Street settings.
You can also achieve big differences in DE/street comfort with differing wheels and tires for each. More sidewall will make a big improvement in street comfort.
Using the above, you go quickly go from fairly comfy street ride to DE-ready just by swapping the wheels, tightening the shocks, tightening the sways.
Shocks - Original 30 Year old konis I would replace. I believe the originals were hydraulic, the new ones are gas-charged. And the new ones have the external ajustment on the fronts. This will make it easy to go from street to DE, as above.
Strut brace - With the Elephant triangulated you can stow the top. I assume the Rennline is the same.
Camber plates - again with Elephant brace, you can use camber plates. I can't answer for the Rennline.
Strut top bushing - generally this bushing holds up pretty well, better than most of the original bushings. Give yours a visual inspection.
Camber plates 2 - Correct. The advantage to a replacement camber plate vs a monoball cartridge is the additional negative camber range. That's all.
Bump steer - This is a long discussion by itself. Short story, I recommend using a bump steer kit at Euro height.
Spring plates - Your car has factory adjustable spring plates. While the factory eccentric-bolt type adjustment has a bit less range-of-adjustment than the screw-type Wevo, it does work well. For a set-and-forget rear setup, I don't see this as a factor. As you know I have a horse in this race, ymmv.
I would also replace the wheel bearings, and of course get a corner balance and good performance alignment. Not a quicky tire-store alignment, spend the money and get it done right.
