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I'm installing two Noritz units in the house I'm in the beginning processes of building. Here in CA (or at least in this County), you have to have a Title 24 energy report done when going through the permit process. The engineer said I could gain some "energy credits" with tankless water heaters to trade off against some other things.
Since the house is long shaped with the kitchen & washroom on one end and bedrooms & most baths on the other end, I'm going with two 6.9 gpm units. I'm also thinking of installing a small, roof mounted solar heater with an insulated tank as a preheating unit. I know I could install a cheaper system, but I think this will be best for the long run.
They do take a lot of gas during operation, but only while running. A tank heater has a huge burner that operates intermittently throughout the day. The electric units take so much power (about 150+ Amps), they are not a good idea for most applications.
The Noritz units take a flow of .75 gal./min. before the unit fires up. That's fairly standard for most, although I think some Bosh operate at .5 gal./min. Some have complained the water flows warm & cold when you draw water at or near the minimum flow rate, because the unit turn on & off. Most units have a 10 year warrantee period, but check the content of the warrantee. Also, in the past, some brands weren't serviceable in the field because the components weren't changeable in the field. Now most are field serviceable. Also you must have soft water (naturally or treated) or the heat exchanger fails early. A stainless steel vent pipe is necessary, depending on the design of the vent system, or it will rust out.
Guess I've taken up enought room here, but there are a lot of things to consider.
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Marv Evans
'69 911E
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