[Grady Clay]

Brendan

You are correct, that is much easier.

You can temporarily re-use your 2.0 flywheel bolts on the 2.4 IF the 12-point wrenching feature is good. When you reinstall the flywheel back on your 2.0, you will want new bolts.

The fitting on the oil coolers is different between the engines, hence the swap.

1969 has a unique engine wiring harness. The ’72 won’t adapt to the car. It will be easiest to change the wiring harness from the ’69 engine onto the ’72. The reason for the alternator swap is to insure alternator-to-voltage regulator compatibility.

You may also want to measure a single piston-to-cylinder clearance. You can do this without taking the cylinder completely off the piston. Simply slide the cylinder up until the piston skirt is exposed, and measure the piston. Using that dimension, set a bore gauge and measure the cylinder from the top. Also measure the cylinder for out-of-round.

I hope you understand the likelihood of doing a complete rebuild, possibly with new P&Cs. Not inexpensive but a better option than reassembling it and have it both smoke and have a rod bearing fail.


While you have things apart, I encourage you to pull the transmission and remove the differential for inspection. Your 911 originally came with a “simplified differential.” The differential spider gears pin was retained by a pair of “tits” on the end of the axle flange stretch bolts. These wore allowing the pin to slide out while driving. This totally destroys the transmission. In ’71 there was an update to prevent this. You can get the update parts out of a salvage 914 (and other) transmission.


What is the general condition of your T, in terms of rust and prior repair?

Best,
Grady