This control rod had to pass through the new belly pan. Due to the 6" range of motion the coltrol rod needed to pass through an oblong hole. I had seen oblong grommets in a leather catalog and contacted the Stimson Company and left word with a customer service person. I only needed three of the two-piece grommets so she sent them out as free samples. Thank you Stimson!
Next to the ride height valve is the electric dump valve. Each axle has one. I can selectively dump air to aid the jacks in tilting the trailer for loading and unloading.
Next to the dump valve is a pressure sensor that gives me a readout of air pressure in the main tank and in each set of bags. It has a digital readout and an audible alert in case of pressure failure.
The drain valve for the concealed 5 gallon air tank ended up directly above the rear axle. The first nipple I used was too long and it broke off as soon as I lowered the trailer. That made quite a bit of noise as the tank still had 150 psi in it.
This is the digital readout for the airbags. Next to it is the hydraulic tongue weight scale.
I needed to install mud flaps. I didn't want the typical Yosemite Sam or reclining chrome nude and just plain black didn't do much for me.
I found some floor mats that I thought were perfect. Together they were too wide so I cut them in half and they worked perfectly.
I mocked up a set in pink.
And another set in blue.
I liked the pink much better.
I installed a concealed battery kill switch that cuts power to all the electrical at the rear of the trailer including the lighting, electric ramps, compressor, dump valves and screw jacks mounted at each corner of the trailer. It was that or lock the hatch door to the controls. I feared someone would destroy a lock to see what was inside so the door will be left unlocked but allthe controls inside will be defeated.
