[Hugh R]

I have an old car that I kinked a brake line in the engine compartment pulling the engine for a re-build. Replaced the line, and the pedal goes to the floor after repeated bleeding. The system was fine before replacing the kinked brake line.

Here's what I've got, single braking system, lose one brake, lose them all. Master cylinder is under the pedal with a remote reservoir on the fire wall. It gravity feeds makeup brake fluid to the m/c. From the m/c the pressure line goes across the engine compartment and up to the vacuum booster. I can bleed the m/c and booster, get the air out, and the pedal gets hard.

However, when I connect from the booster down to the brake distribution block is when the pedal pushes to the floor, no matter how much I bleed. I made up a pressure bleeder to use at the reservoir and I initially pushed lots of air out, went around five or six times and no more air.

The distribution block doesn't have a proportioning valve, just one threaded hole for the brake light pressure switch, and three other threaded holes one to the front left brake, one to the front right brake and one to the rear wheels which splits to the rear brakes on top of the differential.

No leaks that I can see. several people told me its my m/c and that fluid must be bypassing around the cup seal. I don't see how this could be the problem cause I don't get leaks or additional air coming out of the lines, and the pedal gets hard when I bleed just the m/c and booster.

I'm going to get some fittings and block off the rear brakes, and then the fronts to isolate the distribution block and if the pedal gets hard, start adding lines back to the front and then rear brakes. BTW, the car has four wheel disks. Any other suggestions, this is driving me nuts. Oh, and its British trash to boot.