Quote:
Originally posted by lm6y
Milt, I've seen bad hall effect sensors test fine with an ohm meter, but not run the car.
The resistor of some sort, should be a capacitor, or some times called a condensor. Never seen one cause a problem on a HEI .
I can't find an old one around to test, but I "think" the red is hot to the low voltage side, yellow is the ground to the low voltage side, black is the ground to the high voltage side, and the button on the bottom is the positive for the high voltage side.
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From the 911 board:
Quote:
Originally posted by 911pcars
Hint for backyard DIYers.
When performing upgrades and modifications, start and complete one item at a time (if possible), then verify things still work as normal. Proceed to the next phase.
This procedure minimizes having to diagnose two or more systems that could have contributed to a no-start, no-idle, no-go situation.
This also minimizes the next backyard DIY strategy - buy new parts as a diagnosis tool. The thinking is that buying and installing new parts automatically replaces the malfunctioning part which is tossed along with working parts. This strategy also ensures that after about 10 years, nearly every part in the car will be no older than 10 years old.
Sherwood
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This is what I'm trying to NOT do.
I've narrowed it down to, as you say, two things that test OK but perhaps aren't, i.e. the Hall effect sensor and the pick up coil. It's either there or I fried the ECM. Now, there is a mode in which the module runs the ignition on EST (electronic spark control)
bypass. If I can make the car think it's in that mode, it might run in spite of a bad ECM. At least then I'd know to head for the salvage yard for a used ECM. Right now, I'd just like to find the problem.
BTW, I've been over the grounds and other leads for continuity. So far, so good, but no spark anywhere.