Quote:
Originally posted by 1911Guy
Here are the questions:
1. I will no doubt need to drain the oil tank = Oil change - no problem there, but i did that last fall..........
2. Will I need special oil line wrenches that I have heard so much about?
3. Will these be hard to loosen?
4. I would no doubt need to remove the rear wheel, so standard safety proceedures must apply.
it all seems like:
Order replacement lines from Pelican
Drain oil
Jack up car
Remove rear wheel
remove oil lines - making sure to catch any oil left in lines
_______________
install new lines and oil filter
replace rear wheel - torque lugs
Lower car
fill with oil
check for leaks...........
Am I missing something here?
A couple of hours and I am back in business.
Thanks for your time in reading this and if I missed ANYTHING, please let me know.
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It's been 20yrs since I last did mine but as I recall this wrench was helpfull
pretty expensive from Stahlwille but I hear reasonably priced at a bicycle shop
yes, the nuts will be frozen by time, heatcycle and galvanic action. I would plan on replacing the t-stat in addition to the lines. You can try soaking in PB blaster and heat helps, I recall doing mine in an unheated garage on a 5° Jan. day so maybe some wishful thinking there. Don't forget that the front connections will need to come off too, that can lead to additional complications. It is easiest to drop the assembly as a unit and then disassemble from there, the wheeel well is very tight and it would be easy to damage the body sheetmetal.
I used antiseize on reassembly and the lines have come apart w/o issue ever since.