[piledriver]

I have a 914, keep that in mind reading this. It probably still applies.
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I gave the latter parts assembleage a shot, but I had to come up with another method to pull the hub and bearing, as I didn't have all week to hunt for parts.

(Car sounded like a twin engined Cessna with bad sync at 70 MPH , and I couldn't find ANY threaded conduit couplers anywhere "normal" people shop, like Home Depot etc...)

You also may need some 3/4" washers, as my 1/2" ones pulled right though the 1" ones.

Trick if you CAN find the 2" conduit but not the 3"---
Long 8mm bolts (Bus CV joint bolts) support the 1" floor flange for pulling the bearing just fine.

THAT excersize pissed me off enough to rethink it, and look in my shed. (72 Bus)


I had another bearing to do...

How to take it all apart in < 2 minutes.
(Hub pissed me off more than the bearings last time I did it)

The trick?
Plumbers slide hammer.

3/4" pipe (ends threaded), ~5 feet long (longer is heavier) Galvanized or black pipe (I used black, as I had it)

(I actually used 2x 3" lengths with another union. Any combination will work, longer is heavier)

It's way softer than the hub, so it won't dork up the splines.

Stick it thru the hub after pulling the axle.

Reach under, screw on a pipe coupler union over by the heat exchanger...

(Union==just threads inside a short casting, not a multi-piece union that comes apart, too big) coupler is smaller than the bearing ID...

Very hand tight is OK. 10 good whacks and hub was out.
(I was pissed, YMMV)

To pull bearing, unscrew union, slide on 1" washer, screw coupler back on... I used some stray PVC pipe as a bushing to make sure I didn't bugger the trailing arm. Take a bearing with you to the plumbing store and find a PVC coupler that's a press fit...?

Took a little longer, maybe a minute.

You still need the floor flanges and the all-thread/nuts/washers to pull the new bearing back in.

I'll use 3/4" all thread etc next time.