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Here's what I know...
Smell- Normal. My understanding is that that smell is the tire rubber burning off of your exhaust cans, which are directly behind your rear wheels, with nothing in between. As you know, the performance tires spec'd for these cars are a very soft compound. Perfectly normal-tire dust gets on the cans, and when you're not moving, burns off.
My temp guage rides at almost 12:00 sharp, virtually all of the time. In the hotter weather that we have in Virginia in the summer, with the AC running in stop and go traffic, it would would creep up to the right edge of the "0" in 180.
A couple of weekends ago, a buddy in the local PCA helped me remove the front bumper, and clean between the radiators. There's two on each side, cooling and AC evaporator, and they are sandwiched together. You'd be amazed what gets in there. On Rennlist, there's some instructions (with photos). Do a search in the 996 forum. It's very straightforward; after having someone help me through it, I'm going clean them once per year. I've read where people have done this, and their cars ran noticeably cooler.
Hope this helps-
DL
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