[RPKESQ]

To really learn about fine watches takes effort; Relying on the general market is relying on the uneducated masses whom are the primary targets for Madison Avenue type of hype. Mostly flash, little substance.

Among horologists quality is dependant on the details (finish, innovation, hand work, unique features or combination of features) , not on advertising hype.

Rolex has achieved some remarkable technical accolades, but in the last 25 years Rolex has concentrated on raising their brand position more than anything else. Rolex has achieved two notable things.
1) They have perfected the ability to mass produce a reasonable high end product, mostly by using the largest amount of automation in the construction (read as machine made, not hand crafted). The reality of this is that there is little in the way of hand craftsmanship in a Rolex. Their production rates are in the hundreds of thousands per year (not, as been stated, that it takes years to produce a Rolex) and their number of certified watchmakers employed is the lowest among all major brands. Look up their production numbers compared to other high quality watch makers.
2) They have mastered the song and dance of propaganda in their advertising and promotion efforts. They were not the sole developer of the “waterproof” watch, they were not the first or sole developer of the self-winding watch, etc. This hyper inflation of their watch making and design abilities have made them the poster boy for mass market bling consumers and THE largest producers of mediocre, overhyped watches within the watch making and watch connoisseurs communities.

This is not just my opinion; this is the opinion of educated consumers/ connoisseurs and the watch making community. Please do the research. Note: reading the Rolex discussion forums and Rolex “true believers” websites is hardly doing quality research.
Let’s look at some of the most remarkable mechanical watch making achievements in the last 35 years.

First lubrication-free watch (an achievement that ranks up there with the first transatlantic solo flight).

First watch that passed extensive tests for space flight, and not just in the US.

First use of sapphire crystal.

First 1000 meter “waterproof” watch.

Most corrosion resistant metal case material.

Highest level of complication in a watch.

Minute repeaters.

Tourbillons in all configurations (wait till you see a gyro-tourbillon!)

Innovative materials in movements and case.

First belt driven watch.

First mechanical chronograph with a memory.

And so many, many more.

Look these up, Rolex has not achieved any of them.

One of the most intriguing design features in recent years has been exposing the movement to view so that the actual gear trains, balance wheel, escapements are in open view. Interior finish is at least as important as it is in an engine, so why give a brand like Rolex a pass on this. Why doesn’t Rolex show off it’s interiors?

So, if you are speaking about a pre 1975 or so Rolex, they are/were fine watches (although still not the very best) and very collectable. After the mid seventies Rolex changed their entire focus as far as watch making was concerned. Instead of making the best watches, they would use propaganda to make the uninformed consumer believe they were making the best watches. Again this is not just my opinion; it is the common opinion within the watch making community. Do the research, don’t just swallow the common “knowledge” of the uninformed.

Another thing, the COSC certification is not at all what most people think it is. The unfinished movements which are uncased are tested. Most medium quality mechanical movements can pass this series of tests (for example the ETA 2992A2, which I buy for $98). In fact, most of the highest quality makers never submit their movements to this test, because it is not strict enough for them.

Also many brands have different levels of quality within a brand. TAG Heuer, Victorinox, etc. sell low end quartz watches every where, but their upper end watches are all mechanical and very good buys, but hard to find in the US.