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dondarnell dondarnell is offline
darnellsgarage
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 932
Quote:
Originally Posted by john_cramer View Post
Don,

Greetings from a fellow '66 owner. I have a few friends in Dexter, I went to school right down the road (twice).

Nice looking project. Race or street?

A few ideas.

Since you're going to the trouble of using a factory oil tank, be sure to send it to FABCAR to have it baffled before you put it in. On sticky tires, when you hit the brakes all the oil sloshes away from the oil-out location in the tank (which is at the REAR of the tank) causing the pressure pump to suck air, not good. The FABCAR mod is not cheap but highly recommended if Hoosiers are in your future.

Polybronze the way to go, I have Chuck's on my race car. Also check out his offerings for the SWB cars, the quick change spring plates are also offered for the SWB.

I would START with 22/28 and see if you don't like them for the street.

For a mild 2,4 the engine cooler will probably be adequate, once you get beyond about 165 horsepower external cooling should be used.

A set of 911R taillamps would set it off nicely. The mesh for the grill was the subject of a long thread here. I would stick with the fiberglass 911R spoiler with the foglamp openings. Keep the battery where it was, see my thread on SWB batteries. Nothing wrong with a big heavy sonneschein up front to keep the polar moment high, the car will handle better and be safer besides.

I would use Fuchs 15x6" with 205 tires, search for "Pfake Pfuchs" for a modern powdercoat replica of the '67S "triangle" pattern on flat sixes with powdercoat. Only the cognoscenti know they are different.

Search under Grady Clay for the recommended modifications to the torsion bar tube, which include internal rustproofing and the drilling of water drain holes.

Since originality is no longer, I would seriously consider an entire front suspension from a later car. The early SWB suspension has a different ball joint and the adjustability is somewhat limited. I can't see the other side of the trunk slam panel, but if it has bumps on it, you may have non-adjustable strut towers up front. If this is the case, something needs to be done otherwise you will only be able to run factory settings suitable for a 165-series tire! If I were doing a '66 as a hot rod I'd use Smartracing adjustable camber boxes but this requires surgery and welding.

Good luck!
Thanks for the great info. I have those torsion bars, and the 15x6 fuchs (real ones). My track car is a 951, but I may use this car for autocross or DE.

Regarding your last comment abou the front suspension. With the 15x6's and 205 rubber, will the factory settings be acceptable for the street and light track?
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don
Old 01-14-2008, 03:09 PM
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