Vincent,
No you don’t need to remove the 30 mm wrench size stub axle nut.
The procedure is:
In advance have six new M8 bolts, six new Schnorr washers, the CV joint gasket, a new seal and an installation tool (all available from our host).
Remove the six M8 Allen socket head bolts on the inboard CV joint. It is easy to ‘round out’ the hex so make sure the socket in the bolt is clean and your tool is perfect.
Separate the CV joint from the transmission axle flange. Be careful to not damage the mating surfaces. Just let the axle hang or wire it out of the way.
Remove the stretch bolt from thee center of the transmission axle flange. You can install two of the old bolts in adjacent holes and use a wrench to prevent the flange from turning.
The axle flange will now slide out of the transmission.
Confirm that your new seal is the same as the original.
Pry the old seal out taking care to not damage the seating surface in the casting.
Clean and inspect the sealing surface in the casting.
Using tool 9252, P 265c or equivalent, press (hammer) in the new seal. Make sure it stays square and the tool seats against the casting. Visually inspect that it is installed square.
Clean and inspect the transmission axle flange paying particular attention to the sealing surface. Do not use anything that will scratch the sealing surface.
Lightly
grease the sealing surface of the flange. Oil the lip seal.
Reinstall the flange and tighten the stretch bolt to 26-30 Nm (18.8-21.7 ft-lbs).
Reattach the CV joint to the flange with a new gasket, new bolts and new Schnorr washers. Take care that you don’t get grease on the mating surfaces or on the bolt threads in the flange. Torque the M8 bolts to 33 ft-lbs.
After some driving, re-torque the CV joint bolts.
Check this thread:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=222537
Best,
Grady