Thread: Dropped Valve
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Walt Fricke Walt Fricke is offline
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Boulder, Colorado
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Be assured, as engine blow-ups go, you suffered increadibly little damage. When I have dropped a valve the piston broke, the rod end with wrist pin smashed the cylinder, and then continued on to saw a slot in the case. Along the way it broke a hole into the oil pump case. Sometimes snapped the end of the intermediate shaft. Once broke a cam. In addition to the trashed piston and head. Even when the valve head ended up shoved sideways into the seat like yours.

When a CIS blew up I found debris in lots of places in the intake system.

You really need to cut your oil filter open. If it has aluminum particles in it for sure you need to clean the dickens out of all the oil lines, coolers, disassemble the thermostat, and so on. If the bearings are clean when you pull the crank out and the rods off, you may have dodged a bit of a bullet, but I've never been so lucky. You drove quite a while. I never had a chance to do that because mine exploded on the track, or while I stupidly was trying to limp back to the pits after a big bang like a tire exploding (if only it were just that).

And it only makes sense to pull the oil galley plugs and really clean the case. And the oil tank, too - any stuff that made it past the oil filter to get into the bearings will be in the tank also.

I'd not place much faith in the lack of stuff stuck to your magnet. The aluminum piston and head probably didn't file shavings off the valve. But the aluminum particles won't stick to the magnet. All that little stuff in the intake runners (and, since you say it got over to the other bank from #1 to #5, it is in parts of the air box that are hard to get to) is probably but a fraction of what went through the hole in the piston.

But maybe not.

I once drove a VW some 200 miles with a crankshaft broken in half. Someone looks out for us sometimes.

Reusing your case calls for making a lot of careful measurements while it is all disassembled, seems to me, so you can decide on line boring (do not let them do that to the #8, though) and oversize mains, or the nicer shaving of the mating surfaces and then lineboring back to standard (which would, of course, include the #8). or whether things are in good shape, not oval, etc.

And then there is the likely need to replace all your valve guides, and maybe a bunch of your valves if the stems have worn, etc.

Used engines can start to look pretty good at some point. Even a used 2.7 if a) the head nuts will all torque to spec, and b) the leakdowns are not bad (you define bad).

Walt Fricke

Last edited by Walt Fricke; 01-30-2008 at 09:42 PM..
Old 01-30-2008, 09:35 PM
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