[Grady Clay]

Jerry,

All right! Now the fun begins.

Tell us more about the 2.0 you found. What year? What type number (901/xx)? What history? What condition? What needs to be done and how?

You will need an oil tank. There are several different types. The ’72 only (ahead of the LR tire) is probably out of the question and exceedingly difficult to find. The early (’65-’71) 911 tanks are available new (I think) but are outrageously priced. Finding one used, for sale and in good condition is unlikely. The ’73 only tank will work if you can find one. The most economical choice is the ’74-’89 tank. This has the added advantage that the return fitting is 30 mm and fits the front cooler pluming from all the ’74-’89 cars. The oil filter console is integral with the tank. An additional advantage is the supply hose from the tank to the fitting on the cooler is larger and more readily available. However, this requires the ’73-’89 engine oil cooler, not an original 2.0-2.2 cooler.

The oil pipe and fitting from the case to the tank or thermostat is from ’73-’75.

You will need to run a pair of wires for the oil level sender.

A standard 2.0 125 mm clutch is appropriate.

You will need the two engine mounts and the two pieces of tin that weld in the rear corners of the engine compartment. I don’t know the availability. You may have to cut them out of a salvage 911. Grind off the 912 mounts so you can get the 911 intake valve cover off.

While a ’67 911 normally had a Bendex or Hardi electric fuel pump in the engine compartment, there is a better way. In ’69-’70 the Bosch pump was mounted on the front suspension cross member. Search Pelican on ‘circulating fuel system’.

You will need a CD ignition system. The CDI box usually mounts on or near the electric panel. That panel is common to ’65-’69. In ’67 the coil was also mounted to that panel.

You will need to extend wires for the oil temperature and pressure senders. To convert the instruments to 911, you will need to have the tach recalibrated for six cylinders (and 8000 max rpm). It is best to find 911 ‘combination instrument’ for oil temperature and pressure and the fuel & oil level gauge. It is critical to match the sending units to the instruments – there are many varieties.

Inspect the transmission mount. All 911 take one mount. Most (but not all) 912s have a different mount. You will need the 911 mount.


On to the engine.

You probably will need to make decisions about many things: displacement, compression ratio, type of P&Cs, cam profiles and more. You will find that some important parts are very difficult to source new. P&Cs and valves come to mind. Again stirring around parts among the various types can solve some. The valves for the 2.2-2.7 heads are available and inexpensive – so are the heads.

You will probably find Biral cylinders for a 2.0 very difficult to find. The ones for 2.2-2.4 are much easier. In fact (with some mod) you can even use the 90 mm Mahle Nikasil from the ’73 Carrera RS 2.7.

The ’67 911 (normal) only used the Weber 40IDA 3 C (not an IDS, IDAP or IDT although any can be made to work). After 41 years many are now seriously worn. They can be repaired but the cost can match new PMO carburetors.

I am in favor of using the original steel air filter assembly if at all possible for fire, rain and appearance. There are also some period plastic intake stacks that should be plated steel.


A lot of these decisions depend on your intensions and the engine you start with.



We should get Pelican John Cramer in this discussion. He just wrestled with many of these issues for his ’66 901/05.

Please start another thread so there is no longer any association with the initial subject of this one.

Best,
Grady

PS: Where do you live? Put that in your profile and you may find some local Pelicans to help.