Quote:
Originally Posted by mthomas58
CatSkynr, welcome aboard. Nice work and nice pics. Your post is actually quite timely. I'm still not charged but planning to do so this weekend. In the meantime, I'm not happy with my hose routing as high side and suction lines are currently routed on the driver side. There is not enough room in the rockers to conceal both lines and the way mine are run they cross at the jack point and can be seen below the rocker.
Before I button everything up, I'm going to re-route the suction line from the ProCooler as you have along the passenger side.
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It will be concealed. No need in disconnecting anything. I made loose fits before pinning the lines to the pan. You will need to move inboard to the next indention level on the pass-side pan after making the cross run which is roughly 6” inboard to have enough slack in the back. By the time you make it towards the rear, follow the indentation to fall into the original trench (just past the rear door jam when it makes the turn inwards). Pre-drill your pilot holes into the pan by holding the clamp in place over the hose then caulk the original holes closed. When you do this, you end up with exactly 2 unused C-clamps (where the line ran under the splash guard), you reuse these on the front-cross run. Fits perfect, you’ll see when you unbutton your line. Then you will need a few ADEL clamps to pin the line in place next to the hi-side run. Just tack them on the other side of the c-clamps, makes for perfect spacing. I zip-tied my lines all in place at the drier side first, then clamped them to make them look uniform. As you can see in my pic, I spaced them the width of the tie, which worked perfect. One tie loose around ALL the lines, then zip a tie around that looped tie in-between the hoses. Snug them all up.
I plan on making a skid plate for the front and using the original stone guard plastic to make a pan underneath my procooler runs; just to tidy things up as this can be seen and is not hidden. The plastic provided for the stone guards I use at work all the time. It can be molded very easily with the use of a heat gun. I may use this stuff for a skid plate over the front cross run so I can mold it around the hose, then bend a U clamp shape around the procooler side to cover the wheel-well portion that sticks out.
Cars at the mech now getting a fresh clutch so should be a little while before I get back on it to finish things up. I just wanted to get the mass of the work done while the weather is still nice here.