|
Having just followed dtw on a 2.7 rebuild I have a little advice too. I would not bother putting the crank seal (flywheel side) in until the case is together. I put Curil T on the seal as I put the case together and it walked out. PIA. Another thing I did that I won't do again is put the assembly lube on the crank bearing before I rolled the sealer on. I will put the case sealer on first, then I would put the assembley lube on the bearings, and I would use only a little, I put way too much on. When you drop the crank in the lube will squeeze out and get on the case sealer at that joint. Not good. I would skip the silicon on the case bolts, I did. I did not want any silicone floating around inside the case. I put the case together without the orings on the case through bolts and then took them out one at a time and then put the orings on and then torqued them. Make sure you hold the bolts when you torque the nuts, if the bolts turn you can tear the orings.
One more thing I did which goes against everything the engine builders suggest is that I put the nose bearing in without sealer, I just put some lube on the oring. I did not have any leaks there. Mine was not leaking when I took it apart, my case did not need to be align bored so I left it like the factory put it together.
Ray
__________________
76 911S Targa
An ex F1 driver, and Porsche fanatic (my stepfather) once told me that if you listen very carefully on a quiet night you can actually HEAR Porsches rusting in the garage!
|