20 things I can tell you to do.
Don't know your expertise so don't be offended if I state things as if you don't already know them.
1. 75% of the 2.7Litre engines did not last much past 50-70k miles Why?
2. ... because the case over heated from a smog attachmt. called a "thermal reactor" like a catalytic converter placed directly underneath the heads (3 each side). This severe heating caused the head studs to pull away from the case (especially the lower 12) .... thus the heads pull away from the barrels leak air, lose compression, and you hear what sounds like an exhaust leak. Then after lots of $$ spent on trying to fix the exhaust, a Porsche human will let you know that it is the heads banging on the barrels causing "head shatter" and not exhaust leaking noises.
3. Depending on your engine miles you will HAVE TO rebuild the engine from the barrels out, BUT why trust everything is okay, you don't know this engine really, do you? I'd just open the case (3-4 hours more) and place new main and rod bearings and the 2 bearings for the intermediate shaft that turns your oil pump off the crankshaft. Having done that, you are 70% done with a completely new rebuild.
4. To remedy not hearing head shatter again, have a MACHINE SHOP specializing in Porsche install "COURSE THREAD" steel inserts into your existing head stud holes. They are course for grabbing more of the meat metal of the engine block and 3 times as hard to pull ( they usually never pull again after this is done.)
5. I and some others are of the belief of leaving things the way the factory designed it in Germany. My advice to you is use the factory head studs... unless you want to spend gobs more money on fancy studs that I've seen break anyway. Unless you are a pro racer or semi pro... you don't need them.
6. Have all six heads rebuilt completely so you have no worries and who ever you sell the car to will have your paper work of what was done..... thus more cash value for your car.
7. Buy a complete rebuilding gasket set.
8. New #8 bearing. Rod bearings and mains, and head gaskets... do not reuse old ones.... they are one time crimp downs.
9 Have your crackshaft taken to any reputable crank place to check for true and if it needs to be reground. ***Sometimes it's cheaper to buy a good USED crank instead of having to pay for grind and then paying for oversized 10s which can run 3-$400. A good used crank will only be about $30 for a micro polish. Again, it doesn't have to be a Porsche crank place.... MMs are MMs in any book.
Although, there is a method of having the crank "cross drilled " so the bearings get more oil to them. You do know that bearings on a crank really never do touch the crank as much as they are floating or as like to say, hydroplaning on the oil.
10. Have the squirters on you cam towers removed and cleaned out.
11. Have your oil cooler flushed out.
12. Have your fuel injection lines cleaned out.
13. Place a "pop off toilet seat" anti-backfire valve installed in your injection airbox.
14. Replace all the little low cost senders ....especially the rear oil temp sender that is next to impossible to replace with engine in the car.
15. Throw away those "thermal reactors".... they are about the size of a box of donuts and about as long. ( Of course this all depends on your smog guilt or if you need a pump at all.) I used to smog and then remove when I had this engine in my '76 911S Targa.
16. To secure some COOL for the engine place a secondary front right wheel weld oil cooler.
17. Don't go carbs on this.... it was made for CIS injection. "Continuous Injection System".
18. Use collapsible oil return tubes.
19. Use 20-50 Valveline high rev oil.
20. Remember that Porsches use on average 1 full qt. of oil per 1000 miles. It's true, but will vary some. CHeck and check and check your oil..... don't learn the hard way.
Short of building the engine for you, I'm happy to help with questions you need answered when I am home anyway. Or you can fly me up for a week and pay me....LOL. Just kidding..... although, I've never been to BC. I have been to France so close enough I guess. LOL.
Amigos, JOSH / RelaySwitcher PHotos below.
The larger course insert: See the bigger courser thread in comparison to the factory male thread on the stud here that is the same in the factory drilled ones in the case.... too, fine a thread for the heat and softness of the case.
How the course thread looks inserted... the course thread has the factory size thread inside.... I'm sure you understood that.
Picture of Pop Off valve... about $40--60. Saves you airbox from blowing up in a million pieces or just cracks.
