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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: N. Phoenix AZ USA
Posts: 28,977
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Check to see if you have the updated cylinder head temp sensor on your motor.
Look on the left side of the motor and you will find a piece of metal holding three wiring connectors right under the blower motor. Usually the top one is the cyl head temp sensor. Look on the right side of the connector (the wire going to the back of the motor and not to the wiring harness of the car) and if you find only one wire going out then you have the old style unit. The new sensor has both the sense wire and its own ground, thus two wires.
Mine was doing exactly the same thing, and would work fine one time and not start or cut out the next. Replaced the temp sensor and it works fine now.
Could also be the DME relay and I would try switching it out before doing the cyl head temp sensor only because the relay is easy to get to and you should have a spare anyway. Slide the seat full back and you can get to the relay with no problem. A 10mm socket wrench is all you need and its in and out in 10 minutes.
BTW, this is a Bit*h to replace and if you are not good with working on cars, leave it to a mechanic. The sensor is hidden in the back of the motor on the drivers side and a real bear to get to.
Joe
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2021 Subaru Legacy, 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins (the workhorse), 1992 Jaguar XJ S-3 V-12 VDP (one of only 100 examples made), 1969 Jaguar XJ (been in the family since new), 1985 911 Targa backdated to 1973 RS specs with a 3.6 shoehorned in the back, 1959 Austin Healey Sprite (former SCCA H-Prod), 1995 BMW R1100RSL, 1971 & '72 BMW R75/5 "Toaster," Ural Tourist w/sidecar, 1949 Aeronca Sedan / QB
Last edited by Joeaksa; 04-08-2002 at 10:09 AM..
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