[Jeff Higgins]

Umm... O.k., let me get this straight - you just reloaded 150 rounds of .223 ammo. What did you do to work up the load you settled on for this? Are you cognizant of the need for, and the techniques used to work up a safe load in any given caliber for any given firearm in that caliber? I'm not even sure where to start on this one. Do you even understand how many steps you just skipped? Important steps; important to your safety and that of anyone who happens to be nearby when you first fire one of these new reloads.

Every loading manual will list "starting" and "maximum" loads for a given bullet weight and brand, powder type, case make, primer, and overall length. Those loads are listed with the caveat that they are safe in the test firearm or test barrel only, and maximums must be approached with caution in any other firearm. As in increasing the load one grain at a time, starting with the minimum, all the while monitoring the load for signs of excessive pressure in the firearm for which it is intended. We typically load up five at the starting powder charge, five more one grain of powder up, five more with yet another grain of powder, and so on.

Each fired case is recorded as to charge, and inspected for signs of excessive pressure. At the very first fired case that shows signs of excessive pressure, we stop. And go back one grain of powder below that. And, if there are any left with that charge (or increased charges) those bullets get pulled and those loads are not fired. I simply cannot overstate the importance of this procedure.

Changing any one component can have a drastic affect on pressure. A given "minimum" load can be increased to greatly over a safe maximum with a change in any one component. Different brands of bullets, even of the same weight, will dramatically change pressures. Changing brands of primers in a proven safe load can raise pressures to unacceptable levels. Cases vary in weight by manufacturer, and by lots from a given manufacturer. More weight means less internal volume - the outside dimensions are fixed, so the extra brass has to reduce powder capacity. This reduced capacity translates into increased pressures for a given powder charge.

I understand the desire to load as many as possible so you can just go have some fun shooting them. That is all well and good, after the preliminary steps necessary to working up a safe load have been taken. You cannot skip those steps. You cannot simply pick a load and go for it, without the requisite testing. You may get lucky and get away with this haphazard approach. Once, maybe twice, but eventually it will bite you. And it bites hard... I have seen the results of overloaded centerfire ammunition. Blown up actions, blown up pistols and revolvers, and some very unlucky (careless) reloaders who have lost their vision to this, lost digits or whole hands, and have even been killed by bolts flying back through their heads. This is nothing to mess with.

I hate to be a wet blanket in all of this. I just want to see you remain safe while diving into this wonderful new hobby. So, unless your 150 rounds are a rock bottom, starting load, with the same components used as those shown in a reputable manual, I would stop right there and not shoot any of them. They may indeed be safe, but just chambering one and pulling the trigger is no way to find out. Make up some batches of test loads using the same components. Start with a listed starting load for your bullets, cases, powder, and primers. Make up five of those, then five more with one more grain of powder, and so on until you reach your combination used in your 150 loaded rounds. If each incremental step working up to that load proves safe, and only if they prove safe, you should be good to go with what you have. I would not shoot any of them until you have taken the time to do this. Please.