[Jeff Higgins]

Sounds like you are on the right track, Art. Just one thing - that Lyman manual undoubtedly lists starting and maximum loads. Did you start with the starting load?

The reason I ask is that no manual can give you a "proper load" for your rifle. Rifles vary too much in internal tolerances. A SAAMI minimum dimension chamber will produce far more pressure with a given load. A very short throat will increase pressures, while a very long one will reduce pressures. A bore diameter towards the small side will increase pressures, and a bore on the large side will reduce pressures. There are such a plethora of possible combinations of these factors that every rifle is well and truly a case unto itself. Because of this, the manuals will give you a range of powder charges in which to work. No one charge is "proper" in all rifles. You have to determine what is proper in your own rifle. There are no shortcuts for this; you simply have to work up the load in the rifle(s) in which it will be fired.

If you started with the "starting load", you should be fine. Safety wise, anyway. The starting loads listed are, however, usually not optimum as far as accuracy and they will certainly be quite low on the velocity end. This is the real challenge of handloading - optimizing a load for a given gun. It is likely that a load somewhere between the "starting" and "maximum" will give you the best accuracy. The starting load seldom does, but the maximum often does. More often than not, as a matter of fact.

So, once you have established the safe maximum for your particular firearm, the real fun begins. Methodically trying to shrink those group sizes. Start by varying the powder charge in a proven combination. The .223, with its small powder capacity, responds to changes of as little as half a grain. Then go to a different bullet (returning to the "starting" load once again and working up from there) and see how the rifle responds. Then maybe different powders. In the end, a primer change may just provide that last little improvement. Again, always return to the "starting" load when changing any components.

In order of importance, as far as accuracy in any given rifle, I have found the following to pretty much hold true. The bullet selection is most important. If your rifle does not like a particualr bullet, no combination of powder, case, and primer will make it shoot. Next is powder selection. Changing powders, while maintaining the same velocity levels, can have a dramatic affect on accuracy. As an aside, powder selection in gas guns is even more important, precisely because of operating pressures seen at the gas port. Too high is hard on the rifle, while too low may render it less than reliable. Certain powders put more or less carbon soot into the gas sustem as well. Anyway, next in line is primers. You won't see a huge change, but if you are looking at that last little reduction in group size, or are getting unexplained "flyers", a primer change might help.

Anyway, welcome to a wonderful hobby. Again, it sounds like you are on the right track. Sorry if I come off a bit overbearing on some of this. I just want to see you stay safe and have fun. Let us know how your first lot shoots.