View Single Post
Shaun @ Tru6 Shaun @ Tru6 is online now
Registered
 
Shaun @ Tru6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Cambridge, MA
Posts: 44,919
Quote:
Originally Posted by SLO-BOB View Post

1. You should have 230v across the terminals T1 and T3 all the time. Do you?
Yes


2. If you do have voltage, manually override (M on my pic) the contactor to get voltage to the element terminal strip. Can you override the contactor ("M")? If so, do you have 230v across the terminals at the heating element terminal strip (on my pic).

So far I'm not confident that you are actually checking voltage across the terminals - are you? Describe your proceedure. BTW, you should be wearing leather gloves and safety glasses.
OK, on the M, each has 4 contacts.
T1 goes to the top
Just below that, there's a blue wire that connects in series to the temp controller
Just below that is a white wire that connects in series to the temp controller
Bottom is black and goes to strip.

I would like to take a wire and bypass the top and bottom of the M's.

here is some additional testing.

Top wire on M (T1) to:
T1: 0V
T2: 120
T3: 210 all of these are what you would expect

Blue wire to:
T1: 120V
T2: 0
T3: 120

White wire to:
T1: 120V
T2: 0
T3: 120

Bottom Black wire to:
T1: 210V
T2: 120
T3: 0

I'm testing simply by poking the spear leads of volt meter to each lead. When test 5 and 6, I can either poke the screws on the strip or the leads at the heating element.


Here's an interesting test. voltmeter leads at top and bottom of M's reads 210V.

no gloves or safety glasses. I'm hoping to fry completely actually and just be done with all of this.
__________________
Tru6 Restoration & Design
Old 01-11-2009, 02:22 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #15 (permalink)