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Ignition lock wire to 86 on DME relay is ONLY 0,5 mm in my wiring diagram. It could make a disaster here as other wires from DME relay to injectors, DME itself are 2.5 mm. So Clarks-Garage is absolutely right. The jumper should be like this: 87----30----87b. Pin 30 is the common point wich supply +12 volt power to DME and injectors. With this in mind and jumper connected, the relay contacts (both) are bypassed and cranking the engine is only whats needed to start it (assuming all other items are in working order).
David Boetcher...a Pelican member made some investigations on his DME relay a couple of months ago, so do a search and see how a relay can look like when broken. I recommend you to pull off the relay can and have look. Dont bother to fix them contacts or solderings if they look bad. Buy a new relay.
Do try the the jumper first so see if engine starts while cranking it. Second, test voltage (+12 volt) at number 2 pin in 9 pole contact with the re/bl wire (2.5 mm). Pin 3 (re/ye, 2.5 mm wire) in same 9 pole contact should also read +12 volt assuming you have jumpered DME relay socket. Did you pull this multi contact apart, cleaned and "lubricated" it? Well you can do it now when taking voltage measurements. Note: Ignition key in OFF position.
If nothing of this will work, I´m inclined to agree with you it´s the DME itself, probably circuits behind pin 14 & 15, those who are supposed to make grounding pulses to your injectors.
Try to loan a working DME test it and good luck!
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Lapponia
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