Quote:
Originally Posted by RWebb
HSS is good for wood IMHO, but not so good for steel.
Vash - I used a Dremel grinding bit to "initiate" the hole - works great for that and the cone shape creates a nice funnel shaped entry. But they can only go so deep... and the deeper they are, the more likely they are to break...
I bought the Rigid cobalt bits. Home Despot also have Ti coated, and something else. The other two brands were DeWalt and Bosch or another good brand name. As usual, the sales clerk knew nothing at all about his wares. OTOH, I paid nothing at all either. My credit card points can be transmogrified into HD gift cards so I used that. The Rigid bits came in a nice case and the whole thing was clearance saled down to $20.
They worked - I put in another hour drilling and none of the bits broke off. I was then able to...
Drive Out the Spawn of Satan.
But, with the roll pin out, I now need to be able to get the freakin' clutch lever off the shaft (the pedal cluster). I do not own a puller and my brass hammer has been ineffective in driving the shaft out the other way. Maybe the freakin' thing is not supposed to go out that way??
I am not clear on how a left handed bit would help with a roll pin???
|
In the machining department where I work, all they stock is high speed steel drill bits for machining metal and my 3 sets of drill bits (fractional, letter and number) at home are all HSS. I use them for metal all the time. Sometimes I snap one and replace it, but usually I just resharpen them on the bench grinder if they get chipped or dull.
I do have one set of cobalt drills that I have used a couple times in ten years when trying to drill hard stainless.
When I rebuilt my pedal cluster, I used a punch and a big effing ball peen hammer to beat the effing roll pin out. In regard to your clutch lever/shaft.... You need a bigger hammer and a beefy brass punch..... HIT THAT SUMBEOTCH!!!!