Glad you are smiling
Here is the typical "bevel" I have marked in red:
Your block does not show this but.......
You press it in until it bottoms out..
From an earlier post of mine:
FWIW
Installer error on any seal is the major problem. Like KuHL 951 posted, using Curil T (Pelican $10.75) will seal the RMS against leaks (applied to the seal outer edge). If you are out of Curit T and want to finish, WD-40 on the outer seal and sprayed in the cavity will also work and it gets gummy after a while to seal better.
The crank surface has to be wiped clean of all leftover grease and dirt.
You have to oil the inner seal and crank surface with a thick oil or the seal will burn out fast.
The seal has to fit to the bottom of the recess. Especially with the Kaco seal. The Kaco seal is smooth on the outer surface half way-this goes in first. The outer half has "ribs". The seal must go to the bottom of the recess "below" the block/casing "bevel".
You can get a professional seal press or go to Home Depot and get a 4" screw in sewer PVC cap. Lightly sand the bottom to smooth rough production edges and cut out the center square portion to fit over the crank end. If you have properly oiled the seal inside and out as mentioned above, it will slide in easily with gentle tapping. The block bevel will let you know if you have a correct 360 degree fit and not have an edge that is "off"
If you are not through, any RMS will leak.
GL
John_AZ