Ok, thanks. I definitely know about the little 1/16" step inside the seal, but I'm doing this with the head still on the car, which means the valves are still in place, which means the only thing I can see is the outside of the valve guide and seal. Maybe there's a way to temporarily remove the spring and gently pry the seal lip away from the valve stem to see the shoulder inside the seal.
Between the scotchbrite and some assembly lube, I'm thinking I might actually be able to force them on by hand using a deep socket, where I would be much less likely to tap them too far. I just got my new parts, including 12 seals and a valve guide to experiment with fitment.
In your experience with rebuilding heads, do worn valve guides usually mean worn valve seats since the valve doesn't necessarily stay on a fixed axis anymore? I'm curious about where my compression is likely going.
Armed with fresh information, I enter the valve job of doom once again...
