Quote:
Originally Posted by ertech
I not know if I am off topic ,just got my car back from the paint shop and wanted to do some testing with a wire going in the car to see if we have 12 v to the solinoid on boost .before I did that I wanted to test the distributor vacuum pods . used a vacuum pump on the boost side and it does hold vacuum . when I went to the solinoid side it does not hold vacuum at all , but the car runs great . I was thisking something was wrong before I read all these posts .when I removed the vacuum from the d=solinoid to the dist the iddle did not change ??
The car runs great just once in a while the iddle goes to 11-1200 rpm in stop and go trafic. can i drive the car like this or will I damage the car with the bad pod??
Thanks\
Erick
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Mine behaves similarly. Someone else on this thread reported that both sides held vacuum on theirs. I have a new one on order, so I hope that I can solve this discrepancy soon. From the drawing I have, I believe now that both sides should hold vacuum.
If you do not get the idle speed increase when you cold start the car (oil temp should be the same as ambient temp), then the diaphram is leaking too much to work. This assumes that all the parts that are required to drive the solenoid are still on the car and still working. Even when it will not hold a vacuum, the diaphram can still work when connected to a continuous vacuum source, like the the throttle body, depending on the size of the leak.
As far as damage, I do not think there is reason for concern. Leaking on the solenoid side will not prevent pressure timing retard from working.
Here is a picture of a test I did today on my diaphram. With pressure on both sides the rod extended only 0.1mm, which is within my experimental error. With pressure on the pressure side only it extended approximately 2.2mm. With pressure on the solenoid side only it retracted about 0.3mm.
From this I conclude that you cannot get pressure retard with equal pressure on both connections to the pot.
