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Yeah, the slave cylinder should be accessible without splitting the cases. You might have to remove the clutch cover, I can't remember. Timing belts and valve clearances are the biggest things to keep an eye on. If a timing belt breaks, you're fuched. You'll need new valves, probably new pistons, and it could be even worse. The last guy I knew that let a timing belt fail just bought a new engine because it was cheaper. Overheating isn't really an issue, even with it being stop and go as commuter.
If the clutch slave is stock, I doubt you'll be able to get Ducati to cough up just the seals. They'll want to bend you over for a new slave. Probably cheaper to buy a yoyodyne aftermarket one @$200 or so. Get service records, a lot of people 'forget' about having valves adjusted.
All that said: 5k seems pretty steep for an '03 800SS. I wouldn't jump unless it was under 4.
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