Quote:
Originally Posted by rusnak
For now, you can heat the thread area of the trailing arm for a few minutes with a mapp gas torch (two tanks, including the oxygen). This will expand the thread area, and loosen the bolt. Then try with a 6-point socket, as already noted.
Once the hex shaped edges are damaged or start to get rounded, you can either cut the bolt head off with a dye grinder (why people always use Dremels is sort of ??), or some other cutting tool, then take the bolt off with a pipe wrench, or you can go straight to a pipe wrench now.
Get a big azz pipe wrench, not a teeny tiny one. One that is about 3' long and made out of steel. You will use this thing for the rest of your life, so buy a good one. It will take that bolt right out, so be ready.
Always always wrench downward. Do not loosen this bolt upward unless you want to knock yourself silly right on the forehead. Forget about re-using that bolt. It's gone.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rusnak
He should be able to find a good used one at a wrecking yard.
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You won't have to torque it back on that much (60 lbs. if memory serves) so if you can save the bolt you should. It'll be fine going back on if you can get a decent purchase on the hex head and you've cleaned the threads in the trailing arm. If you use a monkey wrench the bolts a goner.
+1 on pushing the wrench down. Not only can you whack your forehead pretty good but you can actually lift the car off the jack stands (especially since you have the engine out).
+1 on the junkyard bolt except you'll have to get it off the junker too. Best bet is to not make the bolt worse and just get it off with a little patience. That's my $.02 anyway.