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Originally Posted by A930Rocket
We insulate with a minimum of R30 in SC, NC and GA. I'd ask the price difference between R30 and R38. Wrap your pull down stair open with a 2x6 or 8 to keep the blown insulation from falling in. Insulate your pull down stairs with fg insulation or blueboard.
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Yes, I want to insulate the Attic hatch/door
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I always insulate the garage walls and ceiling/attic. Keeps the room above or next to it cooler. An insulated g door helps as well.
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The garage door has 3/4"-1" styrofoam on each door section, so semi insulated. They face West too. The garage is otherwise uninsulated. The walls are not insulated, and the ceiling/attic is not insulated. The garage is on the north side of the house and is connected.
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If you have a hip roof, you may need a power vent, but use a 120v on a thermostat. a new one at HD or Lowes is $100, plus install, $50. if you have any power in your attic, you can jump off that. Don't use any type of power vent with a ridge vent. It will just pull air from the nearest place, the ridge vent.
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Yes, I have a hip roof with about 5' of ridgevent. THe entire circumference of my roof is perforated hardie soffit, probably 80-100' of it.
I suspect that's enough intake, but I think the 5' ridge vent is inadequate to move the hot air out of the attic.
The first company that I spoke to said that when they add a solar powered fan, they block off most of the ridge vent to mitigate that direct transfer as a problem.
Right now at the house it's sunny and 75°, and in the attic it's 102°.
Why a utilities powered vent instead of a solar powered vent? Seems like using Utility power to save electricity via the AC defeats the purpose a little. Seems like the solar (free) powered vent would be better. I can put the vent on the back of the roof (faces east), but put the solar panel on the south facing portion of the roof, and the front facing portion is still nice and clean.
Thanks for the food for though folks. Keep it coming.