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Lots of interesting and, in some cases conflicting advice here.
If you don't go the rope/guy line route to fine tune the fall line of the tree(s), you can control the fall of the tree with a properly formed notch and, if needed, wedges.
The notch should be cut on the side of the desired direction of fall and cut no more than 1/4 to 1/3 of the way into the tree. Ensure the back edge of the notch is straight and at right angles to the direction of fall. You are going to use the wood at this line as a hinge.
Begin your cut on the back side of the tree. If there is any concern of the tree tipping over backward, use nylon or hardwood wedges, driven into the kerf (after the saw bar has cut in far enough to give you room, this is why your notch should be the smaller cut).
As you approach the notch, if all is well, the tree should be starting over. If the tree leans back on the bar of the saw, drive your wedges in further. DO NOT CUT THE HINGE material if you want any hope of controlling the direction of fall. Leave about 1 - 2 inches of wood, depending upon the size of the tree, for an effective hinge.
Have fun
Les
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Best
Les
My train of thought has been replaced by a bumper car.
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