[keitho64]

I have a few questions for the knowledgeable Pelican Heads out there but first a little background.

The car in question is powered by a 2.2 with Weber’s, but I am not sure if it is a T, E or S motor. The engine has not been run in a long time (years). I have the carbs balanced as well as I can get them, but the number 6 cylinder is pulling less vacuum through the Unisyn at idle and 3000 RPM. At idle it is relatively smooth with minimal popping (exhaust). When you first accelerate, it will pop out the carbs (Intake) a significant amount and then eventually rev up. If you hold it at a steady rpm, say 3000, it will run smooth with minimal popping. The popping is slight in exhaust but not through the intake. The only intake popping occurs upon acceleration. The distributor is a Marrelli from a T motor and the car has new wires and plugs. I have neither adjusted nor checked the valves yet, but there is no valve train noise.

I drove the car this weekend some and you need to feather the throttle at first but once you get it running it will pull to 6000-7000 quickly and seems very strong. I should add that the car is running off battery power, as the alternator is not charging.

So here are the questions.

1. Is it possible the number 6 cylinder is low due to sticking valves and after being driven for a while it will clear out?
2. Is it possible the number 6 cylinder is low due to misadjusted valves?
3. If the car is running off the battery, is it possible the lack of initial acceleration is due to inadequate voltage?
4. The carbs were rebuilt before I ever ran the car. Is it possible I need to clean out the passages again due to dirt in the system? (The fuel filter looks clean) Since the car stumbles upon first application of throttle I am suspicious of the accelerator pump circuit. However, I do not know if the lack of voltage could be partially to blame.

Based upon what I experienced this weekend here was my plan of attack.

1. Check and adjust valves if necessary
2. Find source of charging problem and test drive after repaired.
3. If the problem(s) still exist remove and rebuild carbs then adjust again
4. If problem still exists return to Pelican for more advice.

So does everyone agree or disagree with my thought process? I will add that I have attempted to perform a compression test with ill fated results. After reviewing the posts here on compression tests I figured I would wait until I have driven the car some.