[RKDinOKC]

Okay...I understand, but the welts give just as much joy without the eventual downer of breaking with autothority.

Suspension
I started with turboS suspension which meant it came with the rebound adjustable Koni Yellows. I replaced my suspension because the rear torsion bars were worn out and bottoming on acceleration. I did a LOT of research, most everyone was recommending what Schumi did. The only ones that recommended different was Andial. Andial were the guys that setup the suspension on THE FACTORY 917 race cars. They felt the 944 cup car suspension was too stiff. That is the 400 front springs, coil over helpers, bilstiens, and M030 swaybars. Instead Andial recommended the setup below. I was impressed because Andial had the parts for the cup car setup, but still recommended the softer more adjustable welt bars and springs even though they did not have any of the parts.

Front springs - 180 to 410 progressive from Porsche Motorsports USA, I think Lindsey Racing has some copies the've had made.
Rear Torsion Bars - 30 or 31mm the biggest you can get. It is equivalent to progressive 400lb coils in front.
Front Weltmeister sway bar with adjustable drop links.
Rear Weltmeister adj sway bar.
Weltmeister Adjustable sway bars are way better than the M030 bars that have holes. They have a sliding sleeve that gives you much more precise adjustment. Recent tried to help someone with M030 bars from Lindsey Racing with 5 adjustment holes and needed between two to get a good balance.
Shocks Koni Yellow with rebound adjustment. Fronts should also have ride height adjustment.

Lower the car 1 in with adj spring perch in front and by indexing rear torsion bars. Mine was low enough that I had to drive it up on 2x4s to get my floor jack under the side of the car. Lowering also gets you more negative camber adjustment in the front without going to camber plates. Too low and you will damage the oil pan on the street.

CORNER BALANCE the car! Took 2 full seconds off my 70 second autocross lap times with only 1/16 adjustment on one corner.

Front and rear camber -2.0
Toe and castor to factory spec or tires will wear unevenly.

Adjust swaybars so car breaks loose both front and rear at same time slowly accelerating around a 75 to 100ft radius skid pad. Then increase stiffness of both until that break loose point starts happening at lower speeds then loosen the just a little. This skid pad balancing of the the swaybars once the tires and alignment is done is critical to achieving the fastest corner speed. 75 to 100 ft radius skid pad is an average corner. When set right adding power the car will slide all four tires out to a bigger radius, lifting the throttle and the nose will tuck in and turn sharper but the rear still stays under control and doesn't simple oversteer.

Adjust the rear rebound as soft as it will go so the rear will lift on braking and the car will start rotating on turn-in. You lift off the brakes as you are turning in. This makes up a LOT of the older suspension design not being as quick on turn-in as the newer cars. To catch the rotation, just get back on the throttle to maintain speed through the apex.

Adjust the front rebound so the car stays balanced as you apply throttle in a turn. Too soft, the front will lift and the car will push. Too firm and the front will stay planted but the rear tires will spin to easily.

I beat many a 944 Turbo with cup car setups.