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I mostly agree with Richard's analysis.
There are a few ways to go about setting up a 944, but a rule of thumb is that you need to go a soft as possible whilst keeping the tires happy. This means camber gain in roll, mainly in the rear. a correctly rated and balanced FARB and RARB is where the secret lies IMO.
You need to maintain a correct total lateral load transfer distribution when making the changes (typically 5-10% forwards of the weight distributions, which on these cars is 50-50). This is what people flub up most of the time.
The other big thing that is mistaken is people throw on 4-500 lb springs and run with dampers that are not valved for that ride frequency. This will reduce transmissibility and result in very unoptimal tire force variation- ie the tire will not be following the track under upsetting loads as effectively.
Longitudinal weight transfer on these cars is your friend. The rear needs to be soft enoguh to dive out of corners under hard acceleration, shifting weight to the rear axle and providing more traction. However, lateral weight transfer is your enemy as without an LSD you will just spin up the inside rear. This is where proper RARB sizing comes in, and why I recommend a stiff yet adjustable arb. Use the RARB tuning to tune out that inside wheel spin.
Autocross guys often sacrifice peak grip for transient response by making the car too stiff. This is why road racing cars will run softer than a lot of autocross guys do.
It all depends on what you need and the track you're running on. Also be aware that at significant ride rates, compliances come into effect that were once unnoticeable- hence hte need for more solid bushings. The system is a giant system of springs in series- and if there are compliances allowing for very soft links in the system, your response with a high ride frequency will be very hard to predict.
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