Or any other car, for that matter. There must have been 20 lbs. of dirt and old chassis grease on the front suspension/torsion tubes alone.
I'm particular about clean chassis and engine compartments. It makes leak detection possible and was necessary before attacking the brake line and fluid change job I was about to perform.
As previously mentioned, the brake mechanicals are fairly new and in great shape but the lines are old and the fluid was very old and dirty. Not the worst I've ever seen but I've seen a lot. With old rubber brake lines, they can look fine on the outside but be swollen and constricted on the inside. Same with metal lines, they can have gunk or sludge from filthy fluid inside while looking ok outside. In extreme cases, fluid pressure is limited to one or more wheels.
Here is how I attack this. First, I syphon-out the old fluid from reservoir w/ a turkey baster and then open a bleeder or two and tap the pedal to expel those lines. We are going to replace all 4 rubber lines, so system will be essentially drained.
I remove the old brake lines, including front metal lines. All of the metal lines and junction fittings will be flushed w/ Brakecleen and blown-out w/ compressed air. Both to clean them and check for restrictions. The junction fittings are notorious for trapped sludge in old cars, IME.