Quote:
Originally posted by jykk04
well.. i think i should let you guys know that i, myself, replaced the tied rod end, which wasn't too hard, changed outter bearing on both rear wheels, inner bearing was left alone, due to the fact that i coulnd't get the rear shaft out..  .. whats with those 'star' screws.. they should of put bolts on it,,,,, and i bought momo race steerin wheel, which i'm putting it on monday, soon as i get the hub that ordered in my hand.. i replaced all the break hoses with stainless steel, so im' going to bleed my breaks tommrow, and i rebuild the caliper as well, now all i need to worry about is crack on my floor, which i probably spot weld.
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The "star" socket head bolts require the correct bit to remove. It's worth the 5 or 6 USDs to get one with a 3/8" drive. That is the bit and a "holder" pined or swedged together to fit the end of a 3/8" ratchet. Use a can of carb or brake cleaner to flush out the ends of the socket heads so that the bit gets the full depth of the broaching to twist against. Keep the bit in line with the bolt or it will strip out.
If/when you strip one of the six socket head bolts use large vice grips to grab the head and break it loose. You should always replace the bolts when you remove them.
You have to replace both bearings and the three seals to do an effective job. The large nut takes at least 350 foot pounds of torque and a little more to line up the nearest of the two cotter pin holes. NO EXCEPTIONS!!!!! If you don't you will just be back into the bearings in less than a year.