[steely]

Nice job! Couldn't tell from the pics, but I'd suggest the following thoughts.

Use some sort of protective (high temp) sleeving or jacketing for the longer runs, shrink sleeving for strain relief.

If you've already started, consider the plastic split sleeving (polyamide conduit is nut one example). Panel edge grommet strips are good for panel feed-thrus where the holes are not circular. All of this to protect your efforts from chafing or corrosive liquid spills.

You'll want to perform isolation/ continuity tests to ensure the wiring/crimps are good end to end and not shorted to the chassis or adjacent wiring.

Kapton or electrical tape is also handy of course. Keep in mind the Kapton is fairly heat resistant, but flammable none-the less.

There are also pre-made cable/wire markers/labels (tape) out there which I'd suggest for permanent use instead of the blue masking tape. The labels you made are a little large and once you remove them you'll be 'blind'. The paper is flammable and the ink will fade. The labels are much more professional and won't get in your way. It would go a long way to assisting you when / if troubleshooting or doing a mod later on.

++1 on the schematic suggestions above - keep an updated master copy.
+1 on the ATO type fuse suggestion. (much less oxidation - much better secure connection)

Question on your pass. side fuse block - will it clear the floor board? Concern is location near feet. Cover and protect if using a metal floorboard.

I have not done extensive auto wiring, but am no stranger to cable/harness design in another industry. Some sources would be Newark, Digikey, panduit and too many others. (distributors, not Mfrs.- no affiliation with either)
Good luck.