mine is pre-airbag, so removing the steering wheel is a piece of cake. Plus, I needed to clean up all the vents, etc. in the dash (PO didn't seem to care)... so it was actually several small jobs into one. And, I recovered the reflective material and replaced dash lights as well.
So now I have a perfectly illuminated non-working odometer.

Oh well, take it apart again and trouble shoot some more.