Classmate of ex-wife joined the UCR faculty there years ago, rented a 2nd floor, motel style studio apt. Lived there for several months before one morning he opened his door to leave for work and BAM! The San Bernardino Mountains wuz right there in his face, 'bout knocked him back a step. It was the first clear, sunny day w/o heavy smog that had kept them obliterated since he'd moved there.
Don't know if it's still that bad; I steer clear of the place.
The old Mission Inn, downtown, is pretty cool. An old girlfriend stayed there a few years back.