[Crowbob]

You should also root prune it one year prior to transplant. There are two ways to transplant (tx) a deciduous tree. Root ball or bare root. Root ball tx has a higher probability of success as is described by EarlyPorsche above. To root prune sever the roots using a sharp (I mean sharp as in sharpened with a grinder) shovel 1/3 to 2/3 the size of the spread of the crown and as deep as you can get. There are specialty shovels for this. Inject the shovel in a circle with the blade angled toward the trunk as if you were going to remove the tree. This does several things. 1) it reduces the size of the root ball, 2) stimulates new growth of the root system inside the ball 3) causes the ball to be more dense reducing the possibility of it disintegrating (which it will to some extent, anyway) when you dig it up the next year.

Bare root tx should only be attempted if absolutely necessary and the time from unburial to burial should be as short as possible: minutes. The roots MUST be kept wet while they are exposed to the air; a wet canvas or other absorbent cloth should be wrapped over the roots if they are transported by a vehicle, including a wheel barrow. The root hairs are a mechanical device that continuously function transporting moisture. If they become dry, they die immediately. The receiving hole should be prepared in advance to minimize exposure time. The tree can tolerate some loss of the root system by pruning, an extreme would be up to 1/2 the root system. Do not tear any roots-cut them cleanly, if necessary.

Transplantaion shoould only be done when the tree is dormant (i.e., after the leaves have fallen and before any new growth on the buds). The exact time is dependent on the zone. Just before the first very hard freeze is most effective followed by just after the first thaw in spring as soon as sufficent warmth allows you to dig. Once in the ground, (do not bury the tree below the graft) watering is absolutley essential. Run the hose while back filling. You want to reduce or eliminate any air pockets. If you tx in the spring, liquid root hormone is a good idea. NOT in the fall. It stimulates new growth just to die due to winter dieback. Organic, slow relese wide spectrum plant food the first year helps. YOU CANNOT OVER WATER-IT IS IMPOSSIBLE for a newly transplanted tree in the spring. Water is the most important nutrient. Be mindful of standing water or slowly draining soil. In clay or heavy soil root rot, fungus, insects and vermin to thrive. In sandy soil, water everyday for an hour-let the hose run.

Lastly, once planted and staked (for a minmum of one year-depending on the height and wind exposure) you need to convey to the tree that it is now in a new home, that you have done everything you can to help it survive and that it is now up to it to survive. You do this by actually telling it so and heeling the disturbed soil around the trunk as you command: "NOW GROW!"

Mulch, feed and water as necessary.