[fumanchu]

some resonses.


The valve tick was not remarkably loud. Sounded like a bad valve adjustment on the left bank, but I just did the valve adjust and they are never out when I do them. One clue was that particular intake valve was "easy" to screw in or better to say that when adjusted to zero lash it seemed that I could screw in the adjuster easier than the others actually compressing the valve spring which of course it's integrity questioned. Thank god for dual valve springs as the inner spring is the only thing keeping things short of catastrophe.

It never made noise when cold, and typically made its loudest "ticking" on overrun and at idle.
Cylinder is #2 intake.

Removing the rocker is easy...5mm allen, pin slides out, pull rocker, done. Grab a flashlight and a small inspection mirror, also put your fingers in there and feel around. Its easy to spot and feel.

Like Sully said I was worried about piston to valve contact, also part of the reason for the compression test. That cylinder has one of the highest compression readings too, and I have been running it pretty hard like this and it runs great. So I feel I dont "need" a valve job, of course it could use one at 147k miles. But then if I did a top end, I would probably do rings and that intermediate shaft bearing is always worn and so on it goes......

I am leaning towards changing all the springs and seals with 964 seals. The intakes seem to go on the SC's and it's really cheap... 14 bucks a spring. This decision is partly based on getting it smogged every other year and trying to control oil burn is a realistic issue. The seals will hold only so long if the guides are shot but at least they are not 30 years old and crispy.

More opinions please.