The first image is an upshot showing the general layout of the equipment.
The 2nd is the oil filter and thermostat mounted in the left rear fender. This location has some good points to it. You can get to the filter easily and unlike methods that put the filter in the motor compartment you don’t get oil all over the place when you change the filter. Another point is that the filter gives off lots of heat and the less in the motor compartment the better.
The 3rd image shows the cooler mounted in the left front fender. There is a strong mesh grill cover that has been removed for the photo. I had to move the battery to the right side for this setup but I also used a larger than needed cooler. The Mocal 13 row fits without battery removal. I boxed in the cooler so all the air that is driven in from the horn grill and the fog light hole has to go through the cooler. I had to make a removable cover plate so I can sometimes block the fog light hole, as this setup will overcool on all but the hottest track days unless I restrict the airflow. (The filter and external oil lines help cool the oil some as well. Even if you only add the filter you will see some additional cooling as well)
The 4th is an upshot of the air intake and the box work in the fender.
The 5th is just a side view if the air dam and the intake scoop for the fog light hole. (I put this one in just because I like the looks of it)
The 6th is the oil sender block with a bypass set up. When you dump the stock oil filter you cannot just plug the lines or you will not get true temp readings. The pressure readings will still be good but without some oil flow thought the sender block the temp readings will be just the block temp and not the oil temps. To make the bypass take one of the old filter lines and bend it around and connect it to the fitting where to other oil line was. You will also need to remove the banjo bolt, weld over the little hole and then drill a tiny hole as a new flow port. This will flow some oil through the sender block. Less oil through the sender block the more through the motor. The stock hole is too big!
The last one shows the connections made at the motor. One (oil out from motor) comes from a (as pictured) new, or redrilled oil pump cover and the second (oil back in) is connected to a port made by drilling out a galley plug and tapping a threaded hole for the AN fitting You also have to install plug the oil return galley in the 3rd piece. All this is necessitates removal and partial disassembly of the motor. I also use high temp covering to protect the Dash 10 near the motor.
Sorry, but I loaded the images out of a normal order and don’t have time to repost. Much of the boxing and air ducting is not needed for any but the hottest motors. (Which mine isn’t) With a stock or street prepared motor a flat sheet of aluminum in the fender will work well. Remember to protect the cooler! One little hole and you are on the side of the road.
You can unhook the oil lines between the thermostat and filter, loop one back to the filter thus skipping the thermostat and cooler to get home.
Hope this helps.
Kurt
