Quote:
Originally Posted by jwakil
Obviously there is something wrong between pin 10 and my WUR's connector since I read voltage at the pin and none at the connector. I was focusing on solving the WUR heating problem (as you suggest, eliminate one problem at a time). The fuel pump starting thing is a separate issue. Will worry about that later (As I understand, the AFS switch is just for safety in case of an accident, right?. If so, I would rather just have it end there than have to watch my crushed car get put on a flat bed  ). |
jwakil,
This is how I would do the electrical troubleshooting in your case:
1). With the
IS (ignition switch) @ ON/RUN position (not start) test pin #10 for power using a simple test light.
2). Plug or connect the socket type connector (#10) from the engine side harness. You could do it in many different ways: a). Use a 6" long wire jumper between pin #10 and socket #10. or b). Remove the #10 socket from the connector assembly. Be carefull not to dislodge the other sockets.
3). With the socket plugged directly or with a suitable wire jumper to the pin, test for power at the
'socket' side. And continue up to the other side of the harness for the
WUR. It will tell you where the
trouble starts.
It could be poor contact or an open line for #10 (red/white). This should be a very simple task for you to achieve. And to determine the FP's problem would be the same technique as above but a lot simplier. Detail later if you're interested. Keep us posted.
Tony