Quote:
Originally Posted by rnln
looneybin, JavaBrewer,
So the vapor barier is applied before glue? I am guessing that applying the vapor barrier first, wait for it to dry then glue and wood pieces?
Milt, RWebb, Scuba Steve
I thought only Laminate can be floating and have a layer (underlayment? or whatever it's called) in between. Engineer wood needs to nail/glue down to the concrete. If you have a layer of vinyl between concrete and wood pieces, and vinyl is not glueing to concrete or not glue to wood pieces, then it's floating then?
I am confused. I visit 3 stores and they all told me same story, which are different from what you guys do (diff from my brother too). It seem like each person is doing his own way? BTW, labor cost include material for laminate is around $1.75, and around $2.10 for engineer. How does that sound? I think if I negotiate, it can be a little less.
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Kahrs engineered can have an underlayment underneath without nailing or gluing anything. It's an approved method for installing the stuff per their instructions. In hindsight I might've looked a bit harder to see whether concrete + moisture barrier + underlayment would've been an approved installation method. The glue was that foul, and once the wood is down it's NOT coming up. My first run was through two rooms connected by a long hallway. From there I built forward which wasn't so bad. The fun began when I had to start building backwards. VERY hard to do because the back side of my last row was glued down and not coming up, so getting the stuff to lock together was a total nightmare.