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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Camarillo, Ca.
Posts: 2,418
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4sd911 View Post
I installed them yesterday. The one that moves about 2mm with hand pressure I believe was like that new purchased new. Could not use the collars, there's not enough room for the collar and the gauge block..
It is common to not have enough room with new chains. I would try again in 6 months. One good thing about this lack of room is that you do not need a collar sice there is little room if a failure should happen.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 4sd911 View Post
How do you bleed them? Open bleeder screw, submerge in oil and pump the piston rod? How hard is it to compress the piston with bleeder screw open?
That procedure is a bit involved. You would have to remove the piston without damage. there is a check valve that has to be depressed with a very thin wire. The amount of oil in the reservoir is important as well. Feel free to PM me if you are not up to tackling the procedure.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 4sd911 View Post
I have the two that were on the engine when I bought the car they are the same type but with the thick flange. I tried to disassemble one to see how it comes apart. I got the top C ring off with the spring retainer and spring but I couldn't get the aluminum piston out. Also I removed the bleeder screw and the piston is still hard to move, although this tensioner, before working on it, the piston will move with hand pressure about half way before harding. Oil coming out of the bleeder has metal flakes in it.
Some flakes can be in the oil after the seal failure. You would have to inspect the piston and bore of the reservoir for damage.
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Aaron. F.S. 1965 Solex engine w carbs/cleaner
Burnham Performance
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Old 11-30-2010, 07:38 AM
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